Sunday, September 25, 2011

The End of Honeymoon Blues

So, that's our last night of honeymoon done then.  We had a great dinner out at Robin's in Cambria, following which we bumped into a fabulous couple finishing a wine tasting who insisted we joined them.  They were so happy and lovely and it was a great night to finish the best honeymoon ever.  We also saw a dolphin on the drive down (well in the ocean next to the drive down), which was such a great sight, albeit one that makes you somewhat late checking in.

It wouldn't be right to finish the blog without something a little bit soppy but I will try to keep it short and sweet.  I have had the greatest three weeks, full of incredible adventures none of which my hurried ramblings with scant internet connections can do justice to.  It has truly been a trip of a lifetime and all that remains is to say a huge thank you to my lovely husband for organising such an amazing secret honeymoon.

Thank you for indulging my blogging once more and I look forward to seeing you all very soon.  Until the next trip, AD xxx

Saturday, September 24, 2011

The Three C's

Carmel, champagne and canines.  In that order.

We arrived at Carmel (see told you it came first) quite late in the day as we struggled to leave San Francisco and hit our first bout of traffic on the way over.  However, it was well worth the wait.  We arrived at the Vagabond's House, which is as great as its name.  The decor is similar to the Adobe Inn where we stayed on our first night - lots of quirky little features although I am afraid I can't load pictures today as the internet is somewhat intermittent and time is not on our side (we leave for Cambria tonight).  Our room here is more akin to a house - with kitchen, bedroom/lounge (complete with log fire), dressing room and bathroom.  I should also mention that the lounge comes complete with a Sherry decanter for a little nip in front of the fire.  The Vagabond's was the first of our champagne experiences in Carmel, knowing that we were on honeymoon they had left us a bottle as a congratulations gift (particularly nice I thought as we were only staying for one night).

We went to restaurant called Christopher's for dinner, where we were also given free champagne when they heard that we were on honeymoon.  Seriously - I am thinking of running this line every time we are on holiday (should clarify that was a joke for anyone thinking that my moral compass is way off kilter).

Today we are off to find the canines.  Carmel is famous for the fact that it is a town of dog lovers (it is even in the guide books so must be true).  That said, today is the first day of real fog (thus far we have had, and I quote a local, the best weather in 30 years for this time of year) so I suspect we may have to look quite hard to see them.  I am looking forward to exploring Carmel though, it is so quaint (and small) that the town map literally maps out each individual shop - it looks like a board game!

I cannot believe that we leave tomorrow; it has really felt like a lifetime away.  We have had such a great time and it is that bittersweet feeling of being excited to see everyone again but a little bit sad that the honeymoon is coming to an end.  However, before the real 'oh no we are leaving' sentiments can begin we have one day left to go and explore Cambria, so until then...

Happy birthday daddy P and until the last post, AD xxx

Happy Birthday Daddy Pope!!

Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday dear daddy Pope
Happy birthday to you!

Have a fabulous day and very sorry I am not there to celebrate with you xx

Friday, September 23, 2011

The Time Changing Powers of San Francisco

The last two weeks have felt like one month (in a good way).   It seems like a lifetime ago that we arrived at Santa Cruz to start our honeymoon.  However, SF has had the opposite effect and I cannot believe that we have had our allotted three days here already.  Time has flown by (hence the distinct lack of blogging).

After our first night spent eating more than I care to mention at Plant we used the following day to explore SF a little more.  As this is our second visit here we have already seen Alcatraz, taken a bike ride to Sausalito etc so this freed us up a little just to soak up the SF atmosphere (although as some of you reading this will notice that doesn't mean key aspects from our first trip weren't revisited..). 

After hitting Union Square (which may involve seeing shops) we headed up to Fillmore, which has a really village-y feel to it.  Lots of independent shops (granted not sure you can call Marc Jacobs independent but that is the exception rather than the rule) and great eateries.  We had lunch at the Grove (ahem revisit number 1 from the previous trip) and generally mooched around in the sunshine.  Having spent the previous day/that morning wondering why frozen yoghurt was such a big thing (why don't people just eat the real thing we asked) we also found a frozen yoghurt place that provided a vegan option.  So now I see what all the fuss is about; so good (and yes we did go back the following day specifically to get the yoghurt).  Now feel like something of a hypocrite..



We also visited some new areas (Mission, Castro to name but a few) and found some incredible shops, selling very artisanal products that the owner/managers had scoured the US (and Japan it would seem) for.  It was really lovely to meet people so passionate about what they do and with a clear eye for design as these pictures show.  I would definitely recommend this place (The Common) as being well worth a visit, for the decor if not the clothes (but the clothes are definitely worth the visit too).  Drats this being a men's clothing store.





Dinner was the lovely (vegan) Millennium (yep, revisit number 2) and much to my delight the tempura mushrooms remained on the menu and largely identical to the dish three years ago, which is a relief otherwise I think I would have been somewhat put out.  Other than the mushrooms we generally ate ourselves silly only to take a cab back to the hotel to be pulled over by the police as our driver was on his mobile.  The drama! 

Yesterday was a fairly similar day with the added benefit of going to see the seals, a walk to the Golden Gate bridge (further than we thought) and lunch at Freshii (of Toronto fame - the memories). We also went to see City Lights bookstore, set up in 1953 and famous for its decision to publish Ginsberg's 'Howl' notwithstanding that it lead to an (unsuccessful) attempt to prosecute the store's owners for publishing obscene material.  Today, the store is protected as a landmark for its contribution to the development of SF literature and culture and is full of pictures of various events, including clippings from the Howl trial.  It is also crammed full with the most amazing selection of books that you could get lost discovering.  






Today we are going to try to see Mrs Madrigal's house (of Tales from the City - a series of books set in SF that I love) and then off to Carmel.   I cannot believe we are in our last few days, but less of that and more on working out how to pack... 
Until the next post (if I have wi-fi), AD xx

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

I Heart San Francisco - How Could I Not??

Seriously, how I am going to get back to real life after this trip I do not know.  Long ago Jonathan and I had to start asking each other what day it was and now, now I have SF to contend with which makes me think (just a little bit) in my head that possibly I could be an honorary local or something.

So, we arrive - 101 degrees, the roof is down we cross the Golden Gate Bridge (seriously cool) and arrive at our hotel.  We unpack, ask concierge for a dinner reservation explaining vegan/non-vegan requirements. Oh you want to eat at Plant then, says she.  What is Plant I hear you ask (no, really I do).  Oh just a vegan, gluten-free and meat restaurant (clearly not all in the one dish - that would be somewhat unpleasant) on Pier 3.  We had a table outside and the most magnificent vegan cheesecake in the world (hmmm - need to go back to Toronto to test that theory).  It was such a great first day in SF and such a great first meal.   I can't believe that we only have three days here (two now) so we need to make them good ones; tonight is Millennium for dinner and I know that some of you know that we are in for a treat ;-).

Off to explore some shops now (ooh didn't mean to admit that) then (this one is for any Tales of the City readers) may go and find Mrs Madrigal's house.

Until the next post, AD xx







Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Sometimes a Challenge is Not a Good Idea

Like when you take a kayak out.  And decide to see how far you can get in your allotted time.  And forget that the tide and wind will be against you on the way back.   Seriously people; HARD WORK.  Also, why is it that I come back freezing and covered in blisters when JD has a tan and no scars to speak of??  Actually, please don't answer that.  

However, when all is said and done it was great fun (because we got back in time for the dessert sampler) and we finally saw a harbour seal in our last five minutes out so all was forgiven.

Tonight is our last night at the Stanford Inn, which is a great shame.  We have had the best time here and I have doubled to the size of a house thanks to their incredible desserts making me feel it is only right that I finish my stay here with a helping of pecan pie.  Hold that, make it a double helping.

Until San Fran, AD xx

Sunday, September 18, 2011

This is Why I Love California

Because this is the local grocery store, on the side of a freeway.  Seriously - kinda knocks the socks of Tesco Metro hey?? This place is madness - everything is so well-styled but in a very natural, relaxed way.  I have a LOT to learn..

Short post today as the internet is a bit ropey here.  The alternative option being that we are between 'afternoon vegan dessert tasting' and 'three course vegan dinner preceded by cocktail happy hour.'  I will let you decide which one is the real reason...

Until the next post, AD xxx








Saturday, September 17, 2011

Oh. Dear. God.

We have arrived at Mendocino.  I was a little sad about leaving the lovely Napa but it appears that I am somewhat fickle as I now have a new Californian love affair.  Jonathan has booked us into the Stanford Inn.  You arrive and it looks like (and is) a luxury log-cabin-esque hotel nestled in the hill-side with amazing views and incredible bedrooms.  Then the real fun starts.  It is a fully vegan hotel.  That accepts dogs.  Yep that is right I have just eaten a meal that ended with a pecan pie and involved playing with Chase the Beagle before dinner and Maya the Spaniel after dinner.

I am in heaven.  And it gets better. This is a sample of what breakfast has to offer (all vegan): 'eggs' benedict/florentine, waffles, pancakes, scramble of every variety, french toast, the list goes on.  Oh and did I mention the cocktail happy hour between 5.30-6.30 and the free dessert sampling between 3.30-4.30?  I am the size of a house and I do not want to leave.

Until the next post, if I am not too busy eating, AD xxx

Friday, September 16, 2011

24 hours in Napa

Yesterday was our last full day in Napa, which is somewhat bittersweet as Napa has been incredible and I don't want to leave but at the same time I am very much looking forward to Mendocino (our next stop on the Californian road trip that is our honeymoon).  As such, we decided to do all our favourite things yesterday and I thought I would share them with you as a Napa round up/guide to what to do if you only had 12-24 hours in the delight that is Napa (you may notice that there is something of a food and wine focus to this list)...

Coffee


First up is finding the right cup of Joe (see what I did there?) which I find surprisingly difficult in the States sometimes.  However, never fear as in Napa the Napa Valley Coffee Company will come to your rescue.  Not only is this some of the nicest coffee I have tried, there are about 24 different options to choose from (Cubana anyone??), the store itself is this incredible wooden archive of interesting bits and pieces whilst the staff are just lovely.  If you are feeling peckish the bagels looked pretty good too.






Shopping

I put this in for completeness but shopping is really not what you come to Napa to do (I know - who'd a thought it, wait 'til I get to San Fran though).  There are no shops in Napa itself - that would be silly as it would mean one less restaurant.  However, there is an out of town mall affair should you want to flex the plastic.

Lunch


Phew, back to food.  Now, for reasons that will become clear when you get to dinner you really need to be strategic about the timing of lunch - as close to midday as possible is what is needed.  Clearly, lunch in Napa can mean only one thing.  Oxbow Public Market and specifically the lovely Pica Pica.  Both of these have been mentioned before but I now have the pictures to show how great the market is.  It is a complete emporium of food loveliness.  The food is the best of its kind, well priced, and mixed in with a few antique stalls and an organic market.  Really you could live here for the rest of your days and be happy.  My personal recommendation is of course the Pica gluten free vegan taco with garlic yuka fries - so lovely for me, not so lovely for Jonathan (seriously the amount of garlic is incredible).






Wine


We are in Napa so of course the best 24 hours in Napa recommendations have to include wine tasting somewhere.  Earlier in the week we did a tour of the Mondavi vineyard but this guide is for Napa town so we went to Taste at Oxbow i.e. near to Oxbow market - see you don't even have to walk very far here.  Now Taste offers wines from two houses so it is great to have a variety of wine to try.  However, the real secret to the awesomeness of this experience is the lovely Mallory Uran.  Mallory took us through our tasting and not only is she ridiculously knowledgeable about her subject but she is one of the nicest people you could meet.  It really felt like we were just spending time with a friend who happened to know an awful lot about wines.  The good thing about tasting outside of a vineyard (although I would definitely still recommend a vineyard tour) is that you get to taste a broader range of wines so start to learn a little more about what to look out for.  After such a nice time tasting we dragged ourselves away to dinner...

Dinner


Oh Ubuntu how I love you and your 8 course tasting menu with wine pairing.  Dear God the food here is like nothing else on earth.  They are so clever and the restaurant was clearly full of vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.  The food is just amazing and the wine is pretty good too.  The restaurant is also very well designed with a quite cool, laid back atmosphere.  Less cool and laid-back is me as Aaron London the head chef at Ubuntu was there last night so (buoyed by my 8 glass wine pairing; thank goodness Jonathan and I decided to share that) I asked for a signed menu - which I have and which was hand delivered by the chef.  Yep, still a little embarrassed by being a groupie...





If you wanted a non-veggie restaurant (seriously why you would not want to go to Ubuntu I do not know) another great place that we went to earlier in the week was Farmstead.  It works on similar principles to Ubuntu (save for the obvious difference) in that it uses all locally grown food (i.e. from their garden) and serves beautiful dishes with the minimum amount of interference.  Again, the restaurant itself had a great atmosphere and very knowledgable staff.






So having eaten yourself silly it is time to bed and for us now time to leave Napa.  As I say, the only condolence is the potential greatness of our next stop as this one really has been a wonderful one.

Until the next post, AD xx

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

The Best Way to Discover Napa

Well that would be by hot air balloon of course.  Yep, last night Jonathan told me we had to be up at 5am for a "surprise."  I have to confess that those types of conversations do start the mind wandering a little but after a very early start we were winging our way to the beautiful Chandon winery (apparently they are not called vineyards over here) to set sail (or should that be balloon)?  Now, I have never been on a hot air balloon before but it was incredible! You don't feel like you are flying at all and we just glided over the valley often at a height of 600ft (which I think puts our 2,000 feet high hike into perspective).  The balloon ride was followed by a champagne breakfast (aka a plate full of breakfast potatoes for me) and we are now sourcing buckets of coffee to help with the old jetlag/early start combo.

The balloon company is here: http://napavalleyballoons.com

We also went to Ubuntu last night, which was, quite frankly, one of the nicest meals that I have ever eaten but more on that after our tasting menu there on Thursday.  Seriously, Napa: awesome.

Until the next post, (a sleepy) AD xxx




Tuesday, September 13, 2011

The Road to Napa

Is an awesome one.   Before we left for Napa we had spent the morning hearing climbing stories from the 60s/70s from the lovely Ron (owner of the Blue Butterfly).  Having managed to deal with the vertigo just from hearing about El Capitan we were completely bowled over by the old photos he had.  Ron was in the midst of the Yosemite climbing world in the 70s (and actually still is - being part of the search & rescue team and still climbing to this day).  It also appears that in the 60s/70s climbers looked like members of the Doors and had the ambivalence to match - cue pictures of flare/paisley clad 20 year olds swigging from beer bottles whilst free-climbing El Capitan.

Buoyed by all this we headed off to Nappa in 80 degrees sunshine listening to the Rolling Stones and thinking life was good.  Little did we know how good it was going to get.  Put simply, Napa is incredible.  It is one of the best places on Earth.  Not only is the town beautiful (it looks like a film set) I didn't realise quite how literally the 'food focus' was taken.  Out of 100 odd retail spaces about 2 aren't restaurants.  More importantly one of those restaurants is a Michelin star vegetarian restaurant, described by a non-veggie food critic from the NY Times as one of his top two restaurants of all times and we are going there. Twice.   I literally cannot contain my excitement (or my ever expanding waistline).

There is also this incredible indoor food market - full of beautiful artisan caterers, coffee houses, chocalatiers, ice-cream makers you name it they have it.  They also have vegan, gluten-free tacos (courtesy of Pica Pica) - they were really quite nice as were the accompanying yuka fries.  Now with all this wonder to behold we did of course forget to take the camera out with us so I will post pictures later.

Until the next post, if my fingers are not too fat to type by then.. AD xxx

Monday, September 12, 2011

To Yosemite and Beyond

Woo-hoo four hours driving in 100 degrees heat (seriously you should see our driving tans; not attractive but somewhat amusing) and we arrive at Yosemite.

We are staying in the Blue Butterfly Inn, which is situated within eyesight of the Yosemite park gates.  The Blue Butterfly (is this starting to sound like a bar in Soho?) is a B&B run by the lovely Liz and Ron.  I should point out at this juncture that a B&B in the US is not quite the same as it is at home - both the Adobe and the Blue Butterfly are far nicer than most hotels I have stayed in and our room in the Blue Butterfly is in fact a mini apartment and about 2/3 of the size of our flat at home (okay, okay is blatantly bigger than our flat at home).  The first thing that strikes you about Liz is that she bakes cookies (seriously the smell on arrival; awesome) the second thing that you notice about Liz is that she has a sparkle to her eye and some stories to tell, I am quite sure that were we here longer she could keep us more than entertained with the one-woman crusades she has been on and not least with tales from their life in San Francisco Bay.  Liz and Ron have created this amazing atmosphere at the Blue Butterfly, it is part hippie commune (with communal breakfasts where everyone staying here appears to be lovely) and part luxury hotel with its super-size rooms all complete with wrap around balconies.

Our first day in Yosemite was, of course, spent hiking.  What started out as a 3 hour hike turned into a 5 hour death defying trek up the side of two waterfalls, climbing a total of 2,000 feet via some very precarious, slippy, uneven steps (Jonathan's version of this trek would be that it 'wasn't too bad').  I should point out here and now that the steps in the picture below are the easy, this would be a breeze if they were all like this steps.  The precarious ones (treacherous I recall Liz described them as) meant that there was no way on this Earth that I was going to stop for a photo-op when trying to scramble up them.  However, having survived all that we had a great time running around the park.  It is safe to say that Yosemite is like an adult's playground (no, not in that sense) as you literally just jump around rocks and rivers and see some of the most breathtaking scenery imaginable.  It also justifies coming home and eating chips (because I am American now and don't use the word 'crisps') and guacamole and drink beer - yep, who knew I am now a beer drinker! Well until we get to Napa that is when I will pretend that I once more have a modicum of decorum and know all about noses, bouquets and the like.

Day two in Yosemite saw us head to Glacier Point which has the best views of the valley, including the half dome rock you can see in the pictures below.  We then headed to the Mariposa Valley where we saw giant Sequoias (sp??) that were 1800 years old.  Seriously, it is quite hard to get your head around that, especially when it decides to have a big thunderstorm when you are half way through a 4 mile hike.  At the end of the day we went to one of the picnic areas (now deserted) where a mule deer (i.e. with antlers) turned up to feed on any scraps from the BBQs.  He stayed around for about 15 minutes and it was such a wonderful way to end our time here just watching him wandering around in his own little world.

We head off today for Napa, which should be about a 4-5 hour drive and to say that I am more than a little excited is an understatement.  Apparently the food is amazing and I suspect there may be a soupçon of wine or two when we are there as well...

Until Napa, AD xxx